With a click of your heels and a one way ticket, pain au chocolats and joie de vivre welcome you to a city of lights and silk scarves warming smoking necks. While we are holding our breath before fashion week drags shaded editors and camera-ready fashion paps to Pareee, operation preparation is in full effect. So study up as we let you in on where to shop, what to eat and how to avoid being trademarked "une touriste."