Gilded Age Casual With A Wink? Nick Mele's Newport Is A Place You Simply Must Visit

There's nowhere like Newport in the summer - a waterfront slice where Gilded Age glamour creeps about every corner, somehow managing to feel casual.

When it comes to experiencing the city's particular brand of oft-gated magic, there could of course be no better guide than Nick Mele. The fêted photographer, whose brilliant lens hunts down unexpected haute moments of playful dissidence with a wink, has become a sort of steward of Newport's social mise-en-scène. A wandering eye capturing black tie balls that tumble out onto the great lawns of impressive "cottages," decidedly mundane moments that laugh at themselves with a particular preppiness and all sorts of charming scenes you can feast upon in the pages of his hit book, A Newport Summer: Off Bellevue.

Having spent each sunny season running about the grand halls of Land's End, the historic former home of Edith Wharton, his Newport little black book is tried and true. 

Curious to know his take on where to go, what to do, and why, in his not-so-unbiased opinion, the New England spot is better than the Hamptons?

What are some of your favorite memories from growing up in such a historic, stately home?
For me, Newport was always about family and friends.  It was going to cookouts, clambakes and cocktail parties.  I took for granted these fabulous properties and houses; huge old homes that were great for flashlight tag, hide-and-seek and ghost stories.  

I remember the eccentric grand dames that kept camels in their backyard or sat their dogs for dinner at the dining room table.  I remember learning to bartend for my grandmother and her guests.  Of course, I remember bonfires on the rocks, fishing for crabs with scraps of bacon, and jumping off cliffs with my older brothers.  

What would you say makes Newport so different from the Hamptons?
Newport is a town that refuses to forget its history.  The homes often remain untouched by modern renovations and style.  Family heirlooms and social etiquette are passed down from generation to generation with a sense of pride and relevance.  Preservation and privacy are held in the highest regard.  The eldest person at the party usually garners the most attention.  There is an understated elegance and charming patina from generations of being that sets Newport apart from most other summer destinations.  Also, we get much better cell service.

How has it changed over the years?
Not much at all.  The same families I grew up with are still coming here every summer and now our children are playing together.  The restaurants are mostly the same as they were when I was a kid.  The Black Pearl still has the best clam chowder, and the third floor of the Clarke Cooke House is still everyone’s favorite Saturday night playground.  Even as more people discover Newport, the economy is still based on tourism.  You’re not going to see a lot of luxury retail here nor is it all that missed.  Though my wife was thrilled when Sephora came to town.

When's the best time to visit?
September.  The weather is amazing and most of the people are gone.  However, the best parties and events are in July and August.  

Where's the best lobster roll in town?
If you can believe it, I don’t eat seafood!  But my wife tells me it’s at Belle’s Café in the Newport Shipyard.

What are some of the biggest tourist traps you'd recommend steering clear of?
Most of the public beaches in Newport are way too crowded and parking will cost you a fortune.   There are so many cool things to do in town that don’t involve the surf and sand.   Unless you know someone with private beach access, I would recommend leaving that for a different vacation.

As a local, what's your secret to avoiding the summer crowds?
Weekdays and side streets are your friends.  I try to avoid the middle of town as much as possible.  There are a lot of great restaurants and stores on the outskirts. 

What spots do the locals tend to flock to?
The bars and restaurants on Broadway are much more local-friendly than those on Thames and America’s Cup Avenue, which run through the middle of town.  

Broadway is where you’ll find great places like Cabana, Norey’s and Pour Judgement and you won’t necessarily be dealing with crowds of tourists.  Also, locals love events like Newport FILM, which regularly does outdoor movie screenings on some of the town’s most scenic properties. 

Your book so brilliantly captures both the old and the new of Newport society, what social events do you most look forward to each year?
Personally, I’ve always loved the 4^th of July.  In my 20’s, it was more about the large parties with friends but now it’s about fireworks and ice cream trucks on the beach with my kids.  

Beyond that, the Folk and Jazz festivals are always a great time.  The Preservation Society always has several events every summer, including their black-tie gala at one of the mansions.  There aren’t very many more spectacular places to get dressed up and spend an evening.  

Also, every three years is Coaching Weekend when handfuls of horse drawn carriages descend on town to parade through the streets and on to different properties.  It's worth seeing. 

How would you describe Newport style?
Timeless.  

Vintage is always cooler than brand new.  Chintz and chinoiserie are common.  Smoking cigarettes is still the norm.  Parties are multigenerational. 

It’s better to be overdressed than underdressed and yet I only wear shoes about half of the time. 

For those sans a "cottage," where's the chicest place to stay?
I love The Vanderbilt.  It's right in the middle of town and is full of charm.  

However, I am also excited for the new Gardiner Hotel that is about to open in the fall.  From the looks of it, the hotel will really have an old Newport vibe.  Something only a local could create.  It also has a fabulous view of the harbor.   

Absolute favorite places to eat in town?
For the food:
- Bar’Cino
- Mama Luisa’s
- Bouchard’s

For the atmosphere:
- Inn at Castle Hill
- Clarke Cooke House

Absolute favorite places to shop in town?
- Charter Books
- Newport Lamp and Shade
- Kristen Coates
- CK Bradley
- Royal Male

Favorite public beach?
Reject’s Beach.

Which of the many mansions are your favorite to visit?
The Elms has the best property and landscaping, but Marble House is my overall favorite, especially for photographs. 

What's something only a Newport local would know?
The best spots to cliff jump.

What are you most excited for this summer?
Seeing old friends, taking photos and giving my kids great Newport memories like the ones I have.

[Photos courtesy Nick Mele]